Russian Soldiers’ Cemetery

The Russian Soldiers’ Cemetery in Matsuyama offers a rare glimpse into a lesser-known chapter of Japanese history. During the Russo-Japanese War (1904–1905), Japan established twenty-nine camps across the country for Russian prisoners of war, with the first located in Matsuyama. At its peak, Matsuyama housed over 4,000 Russian POWs, although ninety-eight lost their lives due to injuries or illness, some succumbing on ships before arrival. These prisoners were laid to rest on a serene hillside overlooking Matsuyama Castle, and their graves are still preserved today.

Unlike the conditions experienced by POWs during WWII, the Russian prisoners in Matsuyama were treated humanely and given surprising freedoms. Archival photographs reveal them partaking in bicycle races in Dōgo Park, and one Russian prisoner even formed a close relationship with a Japanese nurse, leaving a legacy memorialized by a coin bearing her name—now displayed at the Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum. Indeed, the reputation of the POW camp here was allegedly so good, that Russian soldiers were reported to raise their hands and yell, “Matsuyama! Matsuyama!” when surrendering.

The cemetery itself is compact, with carefully marked gravestones identifying each soldier by name in both Russian and Japanese. Respect is shown to their religious backgrounds: three-bar crosses mark Russian Orthodox soldiers, traditional crosses represent Catholics, and Stars of David honour Jewish soldiers—a testament to the diverse faiths of those who rested here. The cemetery is lovingly maintained by locals and Matsuyama University students, and fresh flowers are a common sight.

In addition to the Russian graves, the cemetery features some unexpected memorials. Among them is Arthur Lauenstein, whose headstone reflects a unique blend of Japanese engraving. There is also a commemorative stone for two American pilots who perished just six days before Japan’s surrender in WWII.

For those interested in Japanese graveyards, this site is a fascinating introduction. It not only honours foreign soldiers but also holds graves of prominent Japanese historical figures, including Aochi Rinso, a doctor and Japan’s first physicist, and Adachi Shigenobu, who played a pivotal role in founding Matsuyama. The hillside hosts a mix of memorial styles, with many tall, pointed stones dedicated to WWII soldiers.

The Russian Soldiers’ Cemetery forms part of the scenic Iyo Yama no Be no Michi, celebrated as one of Japan’s 500 most beautiful walks, and it’s also included in the Saka no Ue no Kumo historical course. For visitors seeking cultural and historical enrichment, this site is a meaningful addition to any Matsuyama itinerary.